We blasted KoRn off a cellphone and followed a swerving moving van full of the band's gear south from Port of Spain to Duncan County near San Fernando. The south of the country loves its metal, and Supernormal were playing a gig / birthday party at a second floor bar. The crowd was almost entirely east Indian, in its late 20s, and pumped.
"I wish you had been here five years ago," a veteran Trinidad metalhead told me. "The shows were huge back then. People have moved on to different genres." Still, there was headbanging, beers, deafening volume and birthday cake. A good night.