Mopeds are banned in Yangon, but they're THE way to travel the rest of the country. Heading north from Hpa-an in embattled Kayin State. The Karen ethnic group have been fighting the central government for a federalized Myanmar for decades. We stopped for tea and heard stories of refugee camps, drugs, and the Beatles. Really good English among the older folk, many of whom studied with American Christian missionaries. It's a strange world.