Still in Hpa-an where we started. But this morning Mr John helped us buy a couple precision-engineered second (of third) hand Chinese mopeds. There are a lot of Mr. (Western names) offering to do pretty much anything for you for the right price. Mr John seemed more standup than Yangon's supremely sketchy Mr Tony, and we trust that these mopeds will carry us safely on our journey. The rest-hut attendant fills up my bike (the first vehicle I've ever owned).